0-3"
DODGE
TRACK BAR INSTRUCTIONS
-HELPFUL
INSTALLATION ITEMS-
*2
ratchet
straps
*various
assorted large
wrenches/sockets
*breaker
bar
*tape
measure
*grease
*penetrating
oil
*pickle
fork/hammer-ball
joint/gear puller
*Rat-tail file(dremel tool, die
grinder)
If you are familiar with
replacing a track bar some of these
items may not be needed.
You can use your
normal technique as this trackbar installs the same way
although it has adjustment. This is the easiest and most
effective way I've found to get
the track bar installed and to get the adjustment set right on the
first try.
1. Park the truck on
level
ground.....
2.
loosen
existing track bar
but
do not remove it yet. sometimes they are stubborn
and you may be making a run to the store/buddys house to get more tools.
Loosen the frame stud nut and spray with some penetrating oil.
Using
a small
hammer, tap around the frame boss to work in the oil around the
stud. Now
use a pickle fork/gear puller to try and remove the stud. If you have
to resort
to the hammer technique you are better off removing the nut completely
so that if
you crush the nut, it wont be locked on the stud, making it impossible
to remove as
the stud will turn with the nut once loose......
3. Loosen the lower track bar bolt at the axle. These can be
stubborn also so loosen
the bolt enough to make sure it will come out completely but don't
remove yet....
4.
Straighten the
steering wheel, disconnect the battery, and leave the steering wheel
unlocked(key on).
5. Attach the two ratchet straps in an "X" pattern, from the
frame to the axle, when
viewing the truck from the front. Basically from the passenger side
frame to the
driver side axle and then from the driverside frame to the passenger
side axle.
put some slight tension on the straps....
6. loosen the sway bar links from the axle/sway bar.....
7. Remove the nut from the trackbar upper frame end, give some
slack it the straps,
and drop out the track bar stud. Pull the lower track bar bolt and
remove the
track bar completely from the truck.
7.5 Check that the 3/4" main bolt fits through the frame boss. If
the bolt does not fit
through the top of the hole use the small round "rat tail" file to open
up the
hole till the bolt fits through. You don't need to remove very much
material so
this will only take about 3min with the file...
8. Now it's time to get the axle center in the truck.
Measure from different points on
the frame to the tire, from both sides of the truck, and use the
ratchet straps to get
the measurements equal. Also, stand back and look at the truck from
different angles
to double check. Your eyes are actually very accurate seeing
differences in sides.
9. Put a thin coating of grease on the long 3/4" bolt and a
little on the tapered bearing
sleeve where it goes into the frame. Install the bolt( with no
washer
)from the
BOTTOM of the trackbar, slide the new trackbar up into place, and
install the washer
and nut. MAKE SURE that the threads of the nut have at least a little
grease on them.
Snug down the assembly and be VERY careful not to damage the bearing
spacers
by not having them seated all the way. For now put moderate torque on
the nut.
Just enough to seat the bearing in the frame. Final torque will be
later....
10. Take the trackbar, which is now hanging from the frame end,
set the axle end IN
FRONT of the pocket where it goes, and thread the adjuster in/out so
that the bolt
holes line up. With the axle now centered in the truck this is your
needed track bar
length. Turn the lock nut in so that you don't loose this spot during
final installing
of this end.
11. Loosen the ratchet strap attached to the driver side frame
and tighten the passenger
side frame strap enough that the track bar can be installed into
the axle pocket.
Try to line up the track bar so that when you loosen the strap, the
track bar
will guide itself into the pocket. Use the straps to line up the
axle bolt hole, put
some grease on the original bolts threads, and install the bolt.
12. Double check that the axle is center in the truck. If it's
center you can remove the
ratchet straps and reinstall the sway bar links.
13. Now it's time to torque down the track bar. Being that the
threads are greased the
torque values are decreased making it easier to get everything tight.
The axle end
bolt is VERY prone to not being tight enough but with greased
threads,get the bolt
about 100-120ft/lbs. This will keep the axle from shifting and popping.
The large bolt
at the upper frame end needs to be torqued to 150ft/lbs. The bolt is
rated for more
torque but with greased threads, 150ft/lbs is more than enough.
14. The track bar is actually designed to be "tipped back" a bit
so that the frame
bearing cup is not actually parallel with the frame rail. This helps
with differential
cover clearance, helps the bearing last longer, and makes sure the bend
in the
track bar does not contact the frame. Tighten the adjuster lock
nut with the bar
in this position. The adjuster jam nut is hard to get at sometimes and
may require
you to pull the steering from the passenger side knuckle to get
clearance for
the wrench...
15. Adjust the steering drag link to center the steering wheel and you
are DONE!!!
A few notes......
**The frame end bearing is stainless steel and does not need lube. If
it ever gets
some dry popping in it a few shots of spray lube is just fine....
** Periodically check torque values, especially at the adjuster jam
nut, and at the
frame bolt.....